Backpacking Cooney Lake: Trekking into a sea of golden larches
For years, backpacking Cooney Lake has been high on my list for larch hikes, but I’ve never had the opportunity to drive out past Lake Chelan into the Chelan-Sawtooth area. Thankfully, in 2024, the chance opened up, and I jumped at the opportunity to hike into one of the densest larch groves in Washington.
The trip did not disappoint. At the lake, we were surrounded by a sea of gold. The larches were jaw-droppingly beautiful, and I was mesmerized for the entirety of my stay at Cooney Lake. Inside is my complete guide to backpacking Cooney Lake, one of the best spots on the Golden Lakes Loop. Hopefully, you enjoy the photos and learn how to plan your trip out here!
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A Larch Madness Backpacking Trip to Cooney Lake in Washington
Trail Details for Cooney Lake (part of the Golden Lakes Loop)
- Distance: 18+ miles (Golden Lakes Loop is somewhere around 25+)
- Elevation Gain: 3,500
- Difficulty: Moderate to Hard (the trail isn’t challenging, just long)
- Distance from Seattle: 4.5 hours
- Trailhead Location: Crater Creek Trailhead (normal) or Foggy Dew Creek (less crowded, shorter, but steeper)
My Trip Report to Cooney Lake in the Okanagan-Wenatchee National Forest
Getting to the Trailhead
Living in Arizona for much of my life, I’m always a bit frazzled regarding dirt roads (we have some rough ones down there). And I’m not accustomed to usually how good the forest roads are in Washington. For much of the drive, once you leave Highway 20, it’s on a paved road, with about six miles being a dirt road.
That part is passable in any vehicle, though having clearance and traction will make your life easier. Even still, a Prius could make it up on most days.
When we arrived at the parking lot on a Sunday afternoon, it was very full, though we quickly found a spot. We did notice cars parked on the road, so it was a full house at some point over the weekend.
Hiking Up
My fiancee and I started at 1 p.m. and hiked at a steady pace of almost three mph (moving speed) for the entirety of the hike. (We did slow a bit the last few miles as distance and elevation started to fatigue us.) Overall, the trail is mild, and the elevation is evenly spread for almost the entire hike. The last two miles seemed to have more switchbacks and elevation gain, but that could have been due to tired legs.
A nice part of the trail is how shaded it was. We had hardly any sun on us the entire hike, keeping us cool and allowing us to move quicker than I think we would have in warmer conditions.
I will note that because the trail drops around the 2.5-mile mark, there is more elevation gain than what you would expect just by looking at the starting and finishing elevation. By the end, our total gain was 3,100.
That said, we did nine miles in less than four hours of moving time. With our 20-minute break, we did the entire hike in less than 4.5 hours, for a hiking speed of 2 mph.
Enjoying Cooney Lake
As we arrived at, the lake looked like glass. The hundreds of golden larch trees were perfectly reflected in the water, creating a spiritual-like scene. It was beautiful and you bet I took ample photos of it. We then found our camping spot, a bit to the right of the lake, on a 15-foot cliff section.
This gave us a lovely lake view and easy access to the water below. Two-for-two in my book! We also started a small fire to stay warm as we made dinner. And yes, fires are allowed, but dang did it cause me a little anxiety to make a fire in the western USA.
If you choose to make a fire, clear the area around the fire pit to decrease ember ignition. And put the fire out completely. We heard from wo hikers who said that they had seen other other fires in the area that were not doused fully. Do not leave your firepit hot.
Sunrise above the lake
I woke up at dawn and headed up above Cooney Lake to land the “classic” shot of the lake with a sea of golden larches surrounding it. Thankfully, it wasn’t as cold as I had anticipated, and it took about 30 minutes to make it up the 0.7 miles and 500 feet. (I’m sure someone without a camera would have moved faster.)
The view up top, at nearly 8,000 feet, was magical. For years, I have seen fall photos from here and finally got the chance to see them myself *chefs kiss*. Just a special time to watch the sun come and blanket the valley with light.
Once I’d seen enough, I headed down and joined Jaimie for coffee and breakfast as we watched the sun illuminate the lake.
Heading Down
After coffee and breakfast, we started to break camp. By 10 a.m., we were heading away from Cooney Lake and down into the valley below. It was a phenomenal trip, and I’m so happy to have checked it off—even if it was a long two-day trek.
After four and a half hours, including a nice break for Mazama bread, cheese, and other snacks, we crossed the finish line and reached the car. It was honestly a pretty monotonous and boring trail coming down, but sometimes, that’s how it works out. Overall, though, I was so happy we backpacked Cooney Lake and saw one of the most stunning lakes in Washington.
Pertinent Information for Backpacking Cooney Lake
What backpacking gear should you bring
- Light backpacking tent
- 15-30 degree sleeping bag
- Light, yet comfy sleeping pad
- 55L-65L backpacking bag: Men’s | Women’s
- Jet Boil Stove
- Water filter
- Hiking Poles
- Backpacking Chair
- 2x Backpacking Meals
- 1x Hiking Pants, 2x Sunshirt, 1x Down Jacket, 1x Rain Jacket, 1x sleeping shirt, 1x leggings, 1x beanie and hat, 2x Socks
- Headlamp
Where to stay
The closest towns to stay are Carlton, Chelan, Twisp, Winthrop, and Mazama, which are between 20 and 60 minutes away. Book your trip here.
How hard is the trail to Cooney Lake?
The trail is quite mild, but it’s over nine miles to reach the lake. Even at a gradual incline, it gets tedious and tiresome after four hours. But my fiancee and I made really good time, about 4 hours and 15 minutes up (including 20 minutes for lunch) and then 3.5 hours coming down. (Though this would have been much faster on my own.)
What alternative routes can I take to reach Cooney Lake
Instead of starting at the Crater Creek Trailhead (which is what most do), you can begin the hike at Foggy Dew Creek Trail. Gaia GPS says this is 14.5 miles round trip with 4,200 feet of gain. I would caution that this is entirely accurate, as it says the route I did (actually over 18 miles) was 16.5.
This starting point will provide much more solitude and allow hikers to stay near a creek for almost the entire trail, offering easy water access.
Is there water along the trail?
Only a few spots on our route had running water, and most had a low flow rate. There should be much more water earlier in the season, but it’s dry out here in October after the snow has melted.
- Crater Creek at the 0.70 mark
- Small creek at 3-mile mark
- Martin Creek around the 6.2-mile mark
- Stream out of Cooney Lake, a quarter mile from the lake
When is peak larch season in the Chelan-Sawtooth area?
There’s always some variability in the larch season, but it starts at the beginning of October and lasts for 2-3 weeks. The tail end is a bit less impressive as the needles fall off. Larches begin to turn when the weather drops, so if you keep an eye on the weather, you’ll get a good idea of their progress.
Another factor is wind and rain, which can be detrimental to the needles’ staying on the trees. It’s best if October is dry, as that will keep the needles from falling off.
When do you first see larches?
Around the third mile, you’ll start to see larches high above on the ridge line and slopes above on your left. However, you don’t start to see them nearby until the six-mile mark, a bit past the Martin Lakes junction.
They will slowly start creeping up, and then suddenly, the only things you’ll see are larches! It’s a pretty stunning sight to behold.
Is Cooney Lake Trail shaded?
We were surprised by how shaded the trail was and by the lack of views throughout. For almost the entirety of the trail, you don’t have views of anything but trees. It finally starts to open up in the last mile, and you’ll have mountains and larches to look at.
How many campsites are at Cooney Lake?
I would estimate there are between 8 and 15 campsites throughout the Cooney Lake basin. There are a few right on the front of the lake, a couple more on the right side (as you walk counterclockwise), and at least one around 11 o’clock on the shoreline.
If you go on a weekday, you shouldn’t have many issues, but you might be camping close to people on a weekend.
Mountain bikers share this trail.
Keep in mind that mountain bikers frequent this trail. Them coming up isn’t a big deal, but you need to keep an ear out for them as they whiz downhill. I would suggest not hiking with headphones to ensure you can hear.
Should you do the Golden Lakes Loop?
If you have three days, you should 100% do the Golden Lakes Loop, which includes Cooney Lake, Upper Eagle, Eagle Lake, and Boiling Lake. In all, it’s about 25 miles—though GaiaGPS says 22. There’s also over 6,000 feet of elevation gain on the trek.
To reach Upper Eagle Lake is six miles, making it a shorter destination versus backpacking Cooney Lake.
Day hiking vs. backpacking
I would not recommend this as a day hike. At 18 miles, that’s one heckuva long day, and to be honest, the best views, at least during fall colors, are in the morning when the larches are backlit by the rising sun. Being here for that is a momentous occasion and so dang beautiful.
Final Thoughts on Backpacking Cooney Lake
I hope after reading this, you’re inspired to load up your bag and go backpack Cooney Lake. It’s so worth it, even though the trail is long. I think it would have been better to spend more days out there, so then you’re not hiking back on tired legs.
However you do it, Cooney Lake for one day or two days, or if you do the entire Golden Lakes Loop, you’ll find magic in these mountains and look to return in the future.
Until next time, adventurers, stay safe.
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