Iceland’s F35: Driving 105 Miles Through the Wild Highland Interior
In our effort to make our Iceland trip as exciting as possible, my wife and I chose to drive the F35 Road, which takes you through one of the most incredible wild landscapes I’ve seen. It honestly felt like driving on the moon, or Mars, or something in between.
While we didn’t want to do anything dumb and too risky, after some research, we found that Iceland’s F35 Road was just a dirt road – something we’ve done in the US all the time.
So, twenty minutes after leaving our camping spot in Varmahlíð, we turned off the Ring Road that we’d driven on for the last 8 days, and began our route south through the heart of Iceland’s epic highlands.
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My Experience on Iceland’s F35 Road
Thankfully, it wasn’t immediately a dirt road after leaving the Ring Road. As we headed south, we passed sheep and farms. To us, it looked like any other place in Iceland.
But then the terrain changed. The grasses dried up. The houses faded away. The sheep, no more. And the road? Dirt and bumpy.
The landscapes around us also transitioned to rocky, dirt-covered terrain, with a decent number of lakes on either side. And as we ventured further into the center of the island, the icy glaciers and volcanoes viewable from the south coast emerged. It was pretty cool!
Hveravellir
Around halfway through the drive, we stopped at Hveravellir. Somehow, the universe put this right in the middle, and it’s a perfect place to stretch your legs. On this day, it seemed pretty empty, but I’m sure it fills up on weekends.
There’s a cafe and lodging, but we only stopped to check it out. There’s a small per-person fee. After paying, we ventured into the geothermal area. Initially, we considered going into the hot springs, but after seeing how small it was, how many people were in it, and the chilly winds, we opted against it.
Instead, we walked around the area for 45 minutes. The site has boardwalks, allowing you to view the hot springs and mud pots safely.
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Once we’d had our fill of sulfur and other gases, we kept heading south. We were in a race against time to reach Landmannalaugar before it got too late – even with the midnight sun guiding us.
If we had had more time, we would have stopped at Kerlingarfjöll, which had been high on my list for a while. (I’ll hopefully get back one day!)
The two of us did end up stopping at Gulfoss. I’d visited on my 2019 trip, but my wife hadn’t been, and I wanted her to see the views.
For almost the entirety of the drive, the road was in great shape. The one downside was doing it in a camper van. Everything rattled, creating non-stop noises for some 5-6 hours. If we did it in a Jeep or truck, I think the experience would have been more pleasant.
Still, the drive was so beautiful – but in a unique way – not like a Yosemite way. And I’m so happy we did it. It showed us a new area of the island and warmed us up for our next drive on an F-Road later that day.
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Driving the F35 Road in Iceland: 105 Miles of Dirt
First, what’s an F-Road?
In Iceland, an F-Road is basically a more “dangerous” or “technical” dirt road that is pretty remote and requires (or is advised) to have a 4×4. Many of these have sand, river crossings, or require clearance.
For most of these roads, you’re up in the Icelandic Highlands or traversing more mountainous areas on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.
It is basically impossible to accidentally find yourself on an F-Road because they are clearly marked on maps and with road signs. That said, there’s no on-the-ground enforcement. But the worst-case scenario is getting stuck in a sand section and being very much SOL.
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Should you drive the F35 Road?
On our trip to Iceland, we had a 4×4 camper van, so we were allowed to drive on all F-Roads. That said, we encountered some people (we probably only saw 20 cars over 8 hours) who were in small cars that definitely didn’t have AWD/4×4.
While the rules are the rules – at least for rental companies – the F35 road is one of the easiest and chilliest roads you’ll find in Iceland. It’s honestly just a dirt road.
No Rivers Crossings
One reason for many F-Road designations in Iceland is due to water crossings. On the F35 road, there are none. Even though we had a snorkel, taking a vehicle you don’t have much experience with through water is still a bit nerve-racking. Being able to avoid water completely was nice for the anxiety!
Accessible June Through October
While annual weather will dictate exactly when it opens, it is generally drivable from June through October. We did it on June 17, and there wasn’t an ounce of snow anywhere to be seen. Honestly, this might be open in May for all I know.
Good condition – not too sandy
Another reason for F-Road status is sandy conditions, where you’ll want a 4×4 to get you through it. I honestly never felt like the road was that sandy, or that we were in situations where having four-wheel drive was necessary.
Just the fact that we saw standard sedans driving past us showed that the road was uncomplicated.
Looks like a different planet
This area is wild! It’s desolate and brown, yet you can see massive glaciers and snow-capped peaks in the distance. And then there’s the lakes you’ll drive by. You truly feel like you’re on a different planet with hardly another soul around.
Same Distance – But Longer Drive
Most people take this route to cut off the northwest edge of the ring road. Instead of swinging around, you take a far more direct shot towards Akureyri.
However, it doesn’t save you time or distance. But it’s a much more unique route, giving you a glimpse into one of Iceland’s most unique features.
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How long did it take us?
I don’t have exact numbers, but looking back at timestamps from photos and videos, I think it took us about 6 hours from turning off the Ring Road until we got to Gulfoss. (But we also stopped a handful of times to take photos or enjoy the geothermal area.)
Is the F35 Road worth it?
The F35 Road in Iceland is highly worth it, but you have to be okay with the drive being an almost full-day adventure. Sure, there are a lot of things to do on the way north, but you won’t be able to book any tours, and you’ll likely want to keep your day as wide open as possible to accommodate stops and side quests.
Tips before driving
- Check road conditions. Iceland has one of the best up-to-date systems I have seen. Use Road.is. Check weather conditions also.
- Fill up on gas
- Have snacks and plenty of water
- Take your time
Things to do along Iceland’s F35 Road
In an effort to help you plan your trip, here’s what to see on the way from Reykjavik to Akureyri. While not all of this is technically on the F-road, it’ll make your trip more worthwhile!
On paved roads:
Stop 1: Kerið Crater
Stop 2: Brúarfoss (4-ish mile hike, relatively flat) – one of my favorite places in Iceland
Stop 3: Geysir – short walk to watch a consistent geysir go off
Stop 4: Gulfoss – awesome waterfall to check out
On the F35 Road:
Stop 5: Hvítárvatn Lake – side roads get you close. There’s a huge glacier on the far end.
Stop 6: Gýgjarfoss waterfall
Stop 7: Kerlingarfjöll – stunning natural geothermal/mountainous area.
Stop 8: Hveravellir – A really cool, built-up geothermal area. Small pools, but you can go in there. Expect it to be winy and smelly (they have lodging/food).
Stop 9: Blöndulón Lake – massive lake, nice views.
There’s more to see on the southern part of the F35 road. The northern area is less exciting.
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Photos from the F35 Road in Iceland
Final thoughts on driving the F35 Road across Iceland
If you are planning to visit northern Iceland, I highly recommend driving this route and seeing the unique landscapes of the highlands. It’s a far more barren area, but also filled with wild sights such as glaciers, volcanoes, and geothermal areas.
There’s nothing to be afraid of on this route other than human error of running out of gas. Otherwise, it’s extremely straightforward, and you’ll be golden! There’s no doubt you’ll be in for a treat here!
Until next time, adventurers, stay safe.
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