Hiking and Backpacking Guide to Missouri Lakes and Fancy Lake Loop in Colorado
If you’re looking for a fantastic hike or backpacking trip in the Colorado Rockies, the Missouri Lakes and Fancy Lake loop is picture-perfect. At around 10 miles and 3,000 feet of gain, this multi-basin, two-pass trek shows off the beauty of the Holy Cross Wilderness.
My fiance and I were looking at one-night options for a backpacking trip at the end of August and found this one. After looking at some photos, we knew it would be the perfect spot to soak up some time in nature.
While it is a bit of a drive from Denver (three hours with no traffic), this helps keep down some of the crowds and gets you into a new part of the mountains.
If you’re looking for an epic hike or backpacking trip, keep reading. I think you’ll be inspired to add this one to your trail list.
My 2-day Trip Report Backpacking Missouri Lakes and Fancy Lake Loop w/ Photos
One Minute Details:
- Starting Elevation: ~ 10,000 feet
- Distance: 10 miles for the full loop
- Elevation Gain: 2,900
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Total Hiking Time: 7 hours, 20 minutes (per watch)
- Which way to do the loop? We went clockwise to sleep at Missouri Lakes first.
- Trailhead Location
- Nearest major town: Vail, CO – Find Hotels Near Vail here.
- AllTrails Link.
Day 1 – Backpacking in the Holy Cross Wilderness
Early Morning Departure from Denver
At 4:45 am, the alarms rang, and we stirred from a deep sleep, with little interest in actually getting up. Thankfully, we had already packed the 4Runner, and all we had to do was make coffee and hit the road.
We left dry Denver, and once we were into the mountains near Breckenridge, the sky unloaded on us, and we had a pretty wet drive through the Eisenhower Tunnel and near Vail. Thankfully, it calmed down, and by the time we reached the trailhead, it was basically dry.
Though it wasn’t the end of the storms. Not even close.
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Hitting the Trail – Clockwise to Missouri Lakes
We chose to do the loop clockwise as I’d been battling a hip injury and wanted a chiller hike. The route we took was relatively easy, despite gaining about 1,500 feet in elevation over approximately four miles.
Two times throughout the hike to Missouri Lakes, we had to stop and throw our rain jackets on as quick storms would pass overhead. One storm, about 2/3s of the way up, had us hiding under a tree to stay dry. Thanks to the stopping and starting, it was pretty slow-moving.
I didn’t take a lot of photos as my camera was in my bag, but one area I found impressive was a narrow canyon before the avalanche zone. (Or at least what I’m calling the avy zone, as it’s totally cleared out with a bunch of dead trees… it could also be a fire zone.)
The views were fantastic heading further into the Holy Cross Wilderness. Then, after 2.5 hours, we reached the lake basin. And views kept getting better and better.
Setting up Camp at Missouri Lakes
In preparation for the following day, I wanted to be in the middle of the largest lake in the basin. Luckily, we were one of the first groups up, giving us first pick. We found a decent spot off the trail, around halfway, and dropped our packs.
My fiancée and I put up our tent first, just in case any more storms decided to grace us with their presence. And boy did they ever!
Forty minutes later, we were hunkered down in our tent as lightning flashed throughout the sky and hail bounced off our tent. I peeked out at one point, and the ground was covered in tiny white ice pebbles.
Finally, the storm subsided, and we were free to roam around the Missouri Lakes area. Granted, we didn’t go too far because we didn’t trust the skies. Still, it was amazing to stare out at the lakes and mountains, soaking up the fresh air and stunning views.
Day 2 – Backpacking Missouri Lakes and Fancy Lake Loop
This was the best part of the trip, in my opinion!
Over Missouri Pass
We were up at sunrise, enjoying the morning light as it washed over the lake. For the first time on the trip, we had clear, sunny skies. It was shaping up to be a perfect day.
By 10:15, bags were packed, and we were heading up to Missouri Pass. We only had about a half mile to go. We took the steep, winding switchbacks slowly, taking in the views as we went. In less than 20 minutes, we were at the top, with great views of the entire basin below.
Missouri Pass sits just under 12,000 feet, making it quite attainable from the lake basin, which is at 11,500 feet.
From here, we had our first look to the north. Let me tell ya, it was stunning! Jagged peaks and alpine lakes showed off why Colorado is a land of magic! I was in utter awe, looking out at Treasure Value Lake below.
Down, Around, and Up to Fancy Pass
After enjoying the views, we headed down into the high alpine region below on our way to Fancy Pass – the trail’s high point at 12,400 feet. After dropping down a few hundred feet, a flat trail winds itself in a clockwise fashion over to Fancy Pass.
For those looking to camp, I’m sure you can find some good places, but it’s entirely exposed. (I still suggest Missouri Lakes).
It took us around an hour to go from Missouir Pass up to Fancy Pass, thanks to plenty of photo and breath breaks. The flat part was easy. The 600 feet up (low point of 11,800 up to the pass at 12,400) was hard, but nothing overly challenging. Just move slowly and you’ll be golden.
From here, we snacked on some food and enjoyed the views. We also enjoyed the fact that it was all downhill from here.
Hiking Down to the Trailhead
The first part below Fancy Pass is a very steep trail, but Jaimie and I crushed it in no time. I think I prefer going down that side versus going up. After a quarter mile, it flattened out, and the loose dirt transitioned into better hiking conditions.
In no time, we had views of Fancy Lake below, and 10 minutes later, had our feet in the lake, enjoying a final rest before the never-ending switchbacks to the car.
Our spirits were high as we left the lake. We imagined we’d move pretty quickly down the trail. Unfortunately, we didn’t. It’s a pretty steep trail that seemingly never ends. And there are no views once you get into the forest.
It took us almost two hours to hike the approximately three miles down. By the time we reached the parking lot, we were hungry and ready to take off our packs.
In total, our trip covered 10 miles on the trail, with almost 3,000 feet of elevation gain. (I didn’t have my Garmin on around camp, or it definitely would have been over 3k.)
This is a majestic trail that is perfect for an overnight backpacking trip without having to push your body too hard. I think you’ll really, really like it!
Other backpacking locations you’ll enjoy in Colorado:
Columbine Lake
Blue Lakes
Ice Lakes Basin
Rollins Pass
Backpacking Guide to Missouri Lakes and Fancy Lake Loop in Colorado’s Holy Cross Wilderness
Do you need a bear canister?
A bear canister is not required in the Holy Cross Wilderness. We wrestled with it and determined it wasn’t necessary, and we’d just keep food in our bags to decrease our bag weight for the trip. If you want to bring one, do it!
Our reason was that there didn’t seem to be much wildlife outside of marmots and other small animals to cause much concern.
What are the rules for camping around Missouri Lakes or Fancy Lake?
In the Holy Cross Wilderness, it’s important to follow the Leave No Trace principles. Specifically, for the Missouri Lakes basin and Fancy Lake, the rules require camping 100 feet from the water and 100 feet from the main trail.
Camping away from water keeps outside substances from the water and protects the ecosystems directly around the lake. The trail rule is primarily for privacy and to prevent overcrowding in higher-trafficked areas by keeping tents away from the main trail.
This has a little more leeway. Just use your best judgment.
Clockwise or counterclockwise for this trek?
Prior to backpacking the Missouri Lakes and Fancy Lake trail, I had been battling an annoying hip/groin injury. I wasn’t sure how well I’d do with the passes, so the plan was to get to Missouri Lake and decide the next day if we wanted to do the full loop or head back down.
Thankfully, I felt much better and was able to complete the loop.
Going clockwise is far more gentle and easier than going up the Fancy Lake side. The Fancy Lake side is a ton of switchbacks for three miles to reach the lake and then a strenuous climb to the trail’s high point at Fancy Pass.
The last part of the pass is very steep, and I actually felt way better going down it.
After doing the trail, I would recommend doing it clockwise.
Suggested packing items
- Light backpacking tent
- 15-30 degree sleeping bag
- Light, yet comfy sleeping pad
- 55L-65L backpacking bag: Men’s | Women’s
- Jet Boil Stove
- Water filter
- Hiking Poles
- Backpacking Chair
- 2x Backpacking Meals
- 1x Hiking Pants, 2x Sunshirt, 1x Down Jacket, 1x Rain Jacket, 1x sleeping shirt, 1x leggings, 1x beanie and hat, 2x Socks
- Headlamp
What kind of car do I need to reach the trailhead?
This is one of the better roads that I’ve driven in Colorado. The entrance road that you drive on for some seven miles is in incredible shape. It’s more or less flat for the entire valley.
Once you turn onto the road to the trailhead, it’s steeper and a little more sandy, but I honestly think any car could make it up there in dry, summer conditions.
Any places to camp around the trailhead?
Yes, there are so many places to camp around the trailhead. Well, let me clarify. The narrow road that takes you to the trailhead doesn’t have many options.
But down below, on the main entrance road, there are a couple of campgrounds and tons of dispersed camping.
Hikes you’ll love in the Rockies
Lake Isabelle
Silver Dollar Lake
Sky Pond
Drones are not allowed
Drones are illegal in National Wilderness Areas. Please respect the rules by leaving them at home.
Final Thoughts on Backpacking Missouri Lakes and Fancy Lake in Colorado
As you can see, you’re in for one heckuva trip whether you hike or backpack in Missouri Lakes and Fancy Lake. This loop makes it perfect for an overnighter, but if you just want to do a single day, this is totally doable.
Just remember, if you’re hiking during the summer, to start early. With two passes, you’ll want to be down from the last one by 1 pm at the latest to avoid afternoon storms.
Until next time, adventurers, stay safe.
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